Email
*
Client Name
*
Type of Van
Sprinter High Roof 144"
Sprinter High Roof 170"
Sprinter High Roof 170" Extended
Transit Mid Roof 130"
Transit High Roof 130"
Transit 148" Mid Roof
Transit 148" High Roof
Transit 148" High Roof Extended
Promaster 136" High Roof
Promaster 159" High Roof
Promaster 159" High Roof Extended
Other
Silicone Roof Coat
A silicone roof coat is the first line of protection for the body of your van and also the heat reduction, preventing radiant heat from the sun into your van. I've measured internal temperature under direct sunlight on the roof and it decreases the temperature of the metal by about 25 degrees, greatly decreasing the temperature inside the van making insulation much more efficient by decreasing initial temperature. As an added bonus it protects the roof from deteriorating the paint and welding points, which are often the first things to show year over year wear on a van.
Yes
No
Type of Insulation
Different insulations have different efficiencies per inch thickness called R-Value. The higher the R-value, the more efficient the insulation. Insulation also varies on cost, installation time, and natural vs synthetic. The main decisions to make here are preferential based on natural vs synthetic and cost.
Foam board (high R-value, synthetic, lower cost, labor intensive)
Thinsulate (medium R-Value, synthetic, medium cost, not labor intensive)
Merino Wool (medium R-Value, Natural, higher cost, less labor intensive)
Reflected add on (Increase R-Value of any insulation, synthetic, cost efficient, decreases radiant heat, decreases heat bridges)
Spray foam (fills gaps, increases R-Value, Decreases heat bridges)
Noise reduction
Due to the nature of vans being large metal boxes they can have a lot of noise while driving. Adhesive rubberized matts greatly decrease the tympanic/reverb noise that occurs on the metal panels while driving. As a bonus, they provide and internal level of insulation preventing radiant heat going directly into the insulation (similar to the roof coat). Partial coverage decreases the noise and while full coverage decreases the noise and in addition provides greater heat reduction.
None (not recommended)
Partial Coverage (most common)
Full coverage
Framing
This is where we can fight for some extra room for those of you who are taller! Side frame furring allows the ceiling to be slightly 3/4" taller and due to the nature of the process is more labor intensive. Floor insulation is a way to gain up to an inch in floor to ceiling height.
Bottom frame Furring
Side frame furring
1" floor insulation (great for those chasing snow)
1/2" Floor insulation (standard)
No insulation, just the 3/4" base sheet adhered the metal of the van
Flooring
This is based on durability and aesthetic. both are good options. Sheet vinyl is slightly cheaper but can tear. Lifeproof flooring is prone to expansion and contraction when exposed to direct sunlight/rapid temperature changes which decrease the longevity/quality of the floor. No matter what the floor is a high use area and may eventually need maintenance or replacement in the long term.
Sheet Vinyl
Lifeproof flooring
Battery and Electrical Packages
This is an area that varies greatly based on your needs, wants, and budget. It doesn't necessarily change the function of electrical components in your van, just the ability to charge/monitor/think less about the status of batteries.
200ah Lithium Battery
400ah Lithium Battery (most common)
600ah Lithium Battery
Renogy System (solar and DC/DC charging capabilities)
Redarc System - recommended (solar, DC/DC, and shore power capabilities, bluetooth controls of lights, easy and accurate reading of charge status and use)
200 Watts of solar
300 watts of solar
400 watts of solar
Hardline 15amp outlet (allows for extension cord to plug into van. Bypasses electric system entirely. Nice for plugging in and running a space heater/internal aftermarket AC)
External Components
These aspects often create the biggest impact on the appearance and capabilities both externally and internal with the build of your vehicle. If you want additional components not mentioned here be sure to let me know so we can discuss)
Roof Rack
Ladder
Bumpouts with no windows (allows sideways sleeping configuration)
Bumpouts with windows (allows sideways sleeping configuration)
Rear door windows
Sliding door windows
Panel windows (more light, less insulation)
2 Roof vent fans (one is required)
Air Conditioning Unit
Steps
Roof Deck (roof rack required)
Skylight
Outdoor LED Lights (driver and passenger sides)
LED Spotlights (Roof Rack Required)
Cooking area
2 Burner stove
Three Burner Stove
Three Burner stove/Large oven Combo
Three Burner stove/small oven combo=
Bathroom
Chem Toilet
Natures Head Toilet
Ogo toilet
No Toilet
Water Heater
I use an electric water heater that provides 3-4 minutes of hot water on demand for dishes/a quick outside shower
Yes
No
Partition
I usually add a partition in my builds between the driving cab and living area. It allows me to create an area that truly feels like you aren't in a van since you hide the seats/windshield. It also adds the greatest heat control factor keeping the uninsulated front area temperature changes from impacting the insulated area in the back of the van. A sliding or gate style door seals the area while making the front easily accessible. The biggest con is for people who really want swivel seats since it does separate the front and back areas. Partitions can be added into any build but I especially recommend them for longer wheelbase/extended builds.
Yes, sliding door (requires 2'' of space, better for people under 6'2")
Yes, gate style door (less clearance, more ideal for people over 6'2"
Insulated (great if you do want swivel seats)
Nothing
Closet
I can usually add a half closet behind the drivers seat above the sealed propane compartment. A floor to ceiling closet/pantry can be added in other parts of the van, usually in longer wheelbases, but can be incorporated in any build.
Closet Behind Driver Seat
Closet Next to bed
No Closet
Cabinetry
This we will talk about in depth. There are a few "standard packages" I can install, but am open to unique ideas and needs too.
Slide out toilet from under bed
Toilet under passenger side seating
Maximum Drawers
Minimal Drawers
No drawers outside necessity
Upper Cabinets above kitchen counter/seating (drivers side)
Upper Cabinets above Bed/seating (drivers side)
Large Bookshelf/open shelving above bed (passenger side)
Half Bookshelf/Half cabinet above bed (passenger side)
Walls
This is mainly an aesthetic decision as there are aspects to both types of walls the add and minimize upkeep, longevity, and labor so much so that I would advice to make the decision based off of what you like the look of best.
One Tone Cushioned 1/4'' fabric (many designs)
Two Tones Cushioned 1/4" Fabric (approximately upper 3rd & middle third many designs)
Cedar Shiplap (market price)
Pine Shiplap (market price)
Painted Shiplap (market price)
Trim Accents (can be added for design)
Built in shelving into walls (function and design)
Ceiling
The ceiling is possibly the largest aesthetic factor of the entire build. Lighting, patterns, color, trim, and art can all be incorporated into the ceiling.
Straight slats with solid background and indirect lighting
Patterned slats with indirect lighting (most popular)
Shiplap with indirect lighting
Shiplap with puck lighting
Color Palate
My design usually feeds off of the tones of the live edge counter. I lean into the darks and lights of the woods for main, secondary, and tertiary color schemes to make a cohesive and defined style that flows through the van. That being said the preference of lighter/darker design depends on which colors are used primary and secondary.
Overall lighter colors
Overall Darker Colors
Wood - Maple
Wood - Walnut
Wood - Mahogany
Wood - Cedar
Wood - Pine wood grain/stained (will discuss options)
Paint - White
Paint - Off White/Cream
Paint - Sand
Paint - Black (usually a background/drop color behind wood)
Other
Notes
*